How to clean an ax from rust: different effective ways

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Axes, like any other tool, are also capable of rusting from time to time. A common reason is improper storage. However, it is quite possible to solve the problem at home - almost any ax can be cleaned of rust using one or another technique.

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The content of the article

  • mechanical cleaning
  • Rust removal by electrolysis
  • How to get rid of rust
  • Rust Prevention

mechanical cleaning

In this way, it will be possible to remove the top layer subjected to corrosion. To do this, you need:

  • a brush with metal bristles;
  • sandpaper - you need a large and smaller one;
  • grinding wheel powered by electricity.

Using a brush, get rid of the top layer affected by corrosion. If available, instead of a hand tool, you can use a drill equipped with a wire nozzle for grinding.

Coarse-grained sandpaper is useful for cleaning hard-to-treat areas. The whetstone will remove the defects formed on the blade, and the fine-grained sandpaper will polish it. This method of cleaning is called superficial. However, if you want the appearance of the ax to be like a new tool, you need to carry out deeper processing.

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Rust removal by electrolysis

This method can be called one of the most affordable, and at the same time it is effective. In order for the cleaning procedure to bring results, the main thing is to follow the procedure and be careful.

Required:

  • current source - it is important that it be with a small voltage;
  • degreaser;
  • soda - only calcined or caustic;
  • plastic container - it is important that it be of a small volume, because excess liquid will increase the duration of the procedure;
  • unnecessary stainless steel - rust will pass to this element;
  • two wires.

The process should be carried out as follows:

  1. The surface of the tool is degreased.
  2. Then you should attach it to one of the wires, and the prepared piece of iron, which will “collect” rust on itself, to the second.

    Attention! It is important that the polarity is chosen correctly - the ax is attached to the minus, i.e. to the cathode. Otherwise, the reverse process will begin, and the tool may completely become unusable.

  3. An alkaline solution is poured into the container - 1 tbsp. l. soda per liter of water - so that the structure is completely covered.
  4. It is plugged into an outlet and left for a while - the duration depends on the depth of the lesion and is approximately 2-8 hours.

The result of applying this method is that all rust will pass from the tool to an unnecessary iron object. A black coating may appear on the ax itself. It is easy to get rid of it by applying a solution of citric acid heated to a high temperature.

It has been mentioned that too much water slows down the reaction. But increasing the voltage has the opposite effect, i.e. speeds up the process. Under such conditions, the liquid begins to boil strongly. In this case, hydrogen is released more actively. This gas is poisonous and explosive, especially if stainless steel is taken to receive rust. Because of this, it is better to carry out the procedure not indoors, but on the street.

The main advantage of the method is that there is no risk of metal damage. Even very thin iron can be processed.

How to get rid of rust

You can also remove traces of corrosion using chemistry. It includes:

  • rust converter;
  • gasoline or other fuel;
  • hydrochloric acid;
  • soda;
  • peroxide.

The main active substance of the first remedy is phosphoric acid. In it, iron oxide dissolves very quickly. Additional substances included in the converter (depending on the manufacturer, they may be various), cover the workpiece with a reliable protective layer that prevents repeated corrosion formation.

Kerosene or other fuels may be recommended for minor lesions. A corroded product should be soaked in one of these products. You need to wait a few hours, and sometimes even days. In the end, it remains only to wipe off the remnants.

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Hydrochloric acid is effective in combating traces of corrosion. In order not to harm the instrument itself, it is recommended to add “Urotropin” to its solution (from 3 to 10%). Dosage - 1 tablet per 0.5 liters.

If soda is taken, then it should contain orthophosphoric acid. The “leader” in terms of its content is Coca-cola, slightly less than Pepsi or Sprite. It is necessary to immerse the rusty object in soda and bring it to a boil. The result will be the same as from the use of the converter, because the active substance is the same.

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If the tool is first treated with peroxide, then subsequent mechanical cleaning will be easier.

Rust Prevention

To prevent corrosion of any metal product, it is necessary that its surface is less in contact with oxygen. Ideally, if the product is treated with a rust converter.

A good option is to regularly cover the tool with machine oil, any edible fat is also suitable - lard, sunflower oil, etc. As an option - you can paint, but the paint layer is quickly erased during operation.

Axe

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